The main trends in the fashion market of the pre-pandemic time remain to strengthen state regulation. Whitewashing, and increasing transparency, a course towards digitalization, and the development of various technologies – from managerial to marketing. But the pandemic and crisis have brought about significant changes in the fashion industry. According to the Financial Consulting Group, in 2020, the Russian fashion market decreased by 17% in rubles and 25% in dollars.
According to financial group
And so far, the economy has not recovered, and the disposable income of the population continues to lag behind the pre-crisis indicators. What will be next?
New outfits as a reward for stoicism
The beauty of the fashion trends industry is that it is highly volatile and reacts quickly to changes. This year, the economic recovery is helping with oil, which is already more than $70 a barrel. It’s albeit temporary growth provides tremendous support for GDP and provides a faster exit to pandemic levels.
Nevertheless, positive expectations played a strange role: in the first half of 2021, there was an overspending trend on the fashion market, the effect of deferred demand, giving unpredictable sales jumps. The most noticeable increase was the share of the fashion market in the budget of the poorest Russians – from 5.8% to 15.9%. In people with incomes from 50 thousand rubles, the percentage increased from 4.8 to 11.3%.
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At the same time, rational spending on clothes within the consumer basket is about 4–6%. Now, some expenses are higher than financial capabilities. Even though 71% of Russians live in a mode of economy, they continue to go to stores and shopping centers, “hang out along the windows.” If in August 2020 the activity of visiting shopping centers and offline stores fell: in Moscow – by 4.7%, in St. Petersburg – by 12.8%, then exactly a year later, it has grown by 2.4% and 13.6 % respectively.
Retail layout
In retail, there is an increase in sales of local manufacturers and interest in local brands. The share of sales of Russian brands is growing on international and Russian marketplaces. At the end of 2020, the growth in the number of local suppliers on. AliExpress amounted to 350%, on Wild berries – 52%. In January – April 2021, sales of Russian brands of Wild berries increased by 73%, while the dynamics of sales of foreign brands amounted to only 17%. For 52% of Russians, information that the goods are produced in Russia positively affects the purchase, 60% believe that domestic clothing and footwear are of high quality.
For example, the increase in the minimum prices for the category “women’s dresses” fashion trends excluding discounts in the season 2021/22 compared to the season 2019/20 was in the following chains: Baon – 140%, Mango – 80%, Befree – 67%, Massimo Dutti, Reserved, and Zara – 50% each, H&M – 47%, Incity – 30%, Gloria Jeans – 25%, O’stin – 23%, Uniqlo – 15%.
The retail price has gone up.
The increase in prices in rubles in the mass segment compared to the pre-pandemic. Time estimates in the range of 20–80%. And this is even though the mass market always strives to contain the price.
During the crisis, many retail companies increased their sales.
Not all retailers have returned to pre-pandemic sales figures, but some formats have even benefited from the situation. Within the pandemic, three companies emerged that felt even more confident. Marketplaces, significant discounts, and large chains with a wide offer in the budget segment.
In addition, during the pandemic, a long list of retailers was recognized as systemically essential and received. Subsidies from the state for preserving jobs. So they did not suffer as much as small businesses. For the period 2020 – the first half of 2021, the sales volumes of Tvoe. Chains grew most noticeably – by 56%, Incity – by 36%, Zarina – by 21%, Sport master – by 15%. At the same time, international players did not grow so significantly.
Many retailers open their marketplaces, creating a digital service for managing supplier relationships, servicing manufacturers’ communication with the end consumer. It allows retailers to reduce their risks and not freeze money in things.
The peak of online growth has passed.
It does not mean that now offline and online will grow in the same way. But the speed had become more restrained than in 2020, when. The online market for clothes, shoes, and accessories is produced of 45%. And the online share of the total market turnover reached 22.6 %. The largest category of online shopping within fashion is clothing, which accounts for over 60%. According to forecasts, by the end of 2025, the share of online fashion purchases will double and exceed 50%.
Western brands continue to enter the market.
In the first half of 2021, primarily small companies already present online and are opening their offline stores in Russia. Shikkosa, The Frankie Shop, Bernadette, Fashion Baby, Ecco kids came out.
The primary trend in the retail business is the formation of multichannel sales.
Online players are increasingly going offline, and this process will continue because different channels have a noticeable synergy effect. More than 70% of Russian shoppers of fashion market trends say they want to keep going to physical stores while online growth continues. With a multichannel approach, brands feel much more resilient.
A high-quality product, precise positioning. And a well-thought-out pricing strategy is a must-have, you cannot do without them, but these conditions are no longer enough.
